Encounters With the Archdruid: Narratives About a Conservationist and Three of His Natural Enemies

As they explore Lake Powel, a large manmade lake in the Glen Canyon area, Brower laments the lost natural beauty, recalling vibrant ecosystems now submerged in the lake. Despite his aesthetic appreciation for the reservoir’s beauty, he criticizes the loss of habitats and natural wonders, like the Cathedral in the Desert—a natural formation with a waterfall, which no longer exists. Dominy defends the lake’s creation, emphasizing its accessibility and visual appeal, while acknowledging the sacrifices made to build it.

The floating community at Lake Powel, housing merchants and Park Service rangers, adapts to the fluctuating water levels. Dominy, regarded highly for creating the lake, receives admiration and autograph requests. Moving on, the group docks at Aztec Creek and hikes to Rainbow Bridge, where Brower and Dominy resume their debate. Brower views the eventual rise of lake water under the bridge as sacrilege. Dominy cites geological opinions that still water would cause less harm than floods. They also debate silt accumulation, with Dominy dismissing Brower’s concerns. At the end of their hike, they meet two young hikers awed by Brower but unfamiliar with Dominy. The hikers watch in reverence as Brower departs, highlighting his influence on the conservation movement.

In the next section, several voices discuss Dave Brower, portraying him as a prophet-like figure in the conservation movement. Brower led the Sierra Club, growing its membership from 7000 to 77000 members and earning support from the younger generation. However, his increasing intolerance towards opposition and his rigid stance alienated many over the years. He was known for his stubbornness and perceived arrogance, leading to financial recklessness and disobedience to the board’s directives. These factors culminated in a pivotal meeting at the Sir Francis Drake Hotel, where 400 members gathered, resulting in Brower’s expulsion as the executive director.

Prominent Sierra Club figures were divided in their support. Despite his achievements, Brower’s unyielding approach and inflexible ethics were seen as liabilities. The final vote to accept his resignation highlighted the deep divide within the club. In the aftermath, Brower sought solace in nature, reflecting on his legacy amidst the ruins of a giant sequoia, symbolizing the inevitable clash between conservation ideals and organizational realities.

On the Colorado River, the group anxiously anticipates the rafting adventure. They watch the challenging waters, which requires precise navigation. As they prepare to run the whitewater, Brower stays behind, choosing to walk around instead. The raft made it through the water, folding dramatically but surviving intact. Dominy makes sarcastic remarks about Brower’s decision to avoid the adventure. When asked why he did not ride through, Brower candidly admits, “Because I’m chicken” (232).

McPhee pauses the narrative to describe Brower’s contributions to mountaineering in the Sierra Nevada. Brower is accredited with the first ascents of 33 peaks, including Arrowhead, Glacier Point, and Lost Brother. Brower’s approach to climbing focuses on the journey rather than the summit, emphasizing the thrill of finding a route and overcoming challenges. Despite initial failures by others, he has successfully navigated many difficult climbs, using meticulous planning and visualization.

Back on the Colorado River, the group anticipates Lava Falls, a notoriously challenging rapid 24 miles ahead. The group’s guide, Jerry Sanderson, describes Lava Falls as “the granddaddy of them all” (234) due to its significant drop, numerous boulders, and shifting holes.

During a pause under a cliff, Brower suggests exploring a clear, green stream flowing from the sandstone. He and McPhee swim into the stream, discovering a stunning labyrinth within the cliff that leads to Havasu Canyon. This canyon features a series of cascading pools and waterfalls, with crystal-clear water and lush vegetation. This area is the home of the Havasupai people, a tribe whose name means “the people of the blue-green waters” (236), who have lived there for centuries. Brower points out that Hualapai Dam, which was supposed to be built but was halted by the conservationists, would have submerged this natural wonder. As they return, Dominy praises the canyon as the most beautiful in the West.

At Mile 171 on the Colorado River, the group pauses at Gateway Canyon, unloading the raft and preparing for dinner. Dominy inquires about Brower’s wartime activities, learning that during WWII Brower trained troops in climbing and served in Italy with the 10th Mountain Division. As they relax, Dominy and Brower discuss the soothing sounds of the river and the appeal of white water. Brower reflects on the trip’s impact, expressing newfound respect for Dominy despite his opposition to dams. They debate the potential Hualapai Dam, with Brower condemning it as unnecessary and destructive, while Dominy defends it as beneficial for society. As they share drinks, they acknowledge their past conflicts, and agree to continue their dialogue.

They soon arrive at Lava Falls. As they prepare to navigate the rapid, Brower joins the raft, bracing himself as Dominy lights a cigar. They enter Lava Falls, navigating through intense waves and holes where the water pounds and lifts them. After successfully running the rapid, Brower remarks sarcastically on the potential impact of a hypothetical Lake Dominy, while Dominy quietly smokes.