logo

51 pages 1 hour read

Grace M. Cho

Tastes Like War: A Memoir

Nonfiction | Autobiography / Memoir | Adult | Published in 2021

A modern alternative to SparkNotes and CliffsNotes, SuperSummary offers high-quality Study Guides with detailed chapter summaries and analysis of major themes, characters, and more.

Themes

Food as Care

Cho’s memoir shows that nourishment is not as simple as getting enough calories and vitamins. Instead, nourishment is a physical and emotional experience, achieved when the eater enjoys their food and feels that their preferences and background are taken into consideration. This is the case with Koonja at the two times in her life when she is starving: the first being during the Korean War and the poverty of its aftermath, and the second being when she refuses to eat as a result of her schizophrenia. Cho portrays these two instances of starvation as linked through Koonja’s comment that the powdered milk her son gives her to ensure she gets enough protein, “tastes like war” (19). The occupying American army also provided powdered milk to Koreans starved of rice, believing that powdered milk was a cheap and efficient food. However, the occupied Korean civilians experienced the food offering as a form of colonialist aggression when they suffered from diarrhea. Throughout her memoir, Cho connects the notion of nourishment with cultural consideration and suggests that a thoughtfully prepared meal is a kind of care.

The physical and spiritual connection between Korean food and survival is evident when Koonja manages to sustain herself for months on a jar of kimchi and rice that her grandmother has stored. Here, Koonja not only gets the nourishment of familiar food, but is spiritually boosted by the emotional resonance of the kimchi, which recalls the love and care of her grandmother. Koonja understands the connection between nourishment and a mother’s food so intimately that she becomes a surrogate mother to the Korean adoptees in her town and cooks kimchi for them. Although their white adopted mother thinks that sauerkraut, another type of fermented cabbage from German cuisine, is a sufficient replacement, Koonja comprehends that it is not. In cooking Korean food, she softens the blow of separation from the children’s birth mother and immigration to a hostile country.

Later, Cho’s habit of cooking the Korean food of Koonja’s childhood emulates Koonja’s own efforts with the Korean adoptees. The effort Cho goes to, visiting to the Korean market where the vendors scorn her for her mixed-race appearance and nonfluency in the Korean language, shows Koonja that Cho deems her worthy of care and recognition. Koonja accepts the sustenance for her body because she is being intellectually and emotionally nourished at the same time.

However, Cho’s mother’s relationship with food is not as simple as merely wanting to subsist on Korean staples. Her love of the American cheeseburger, her favorite food, conveys her original sense of hopefulness about American generosity and abundance. To Koonja, Cho’s father affirms her worth by buying her a cheeseburger, a food she would have previously had to source from army bins, and she can imagine a bright future in America. The thought of cheeseburgers sustains her as she waits out the period when she can emigrate, and after she has emigrated she looks forward to “cheeseburger season,” a period each year when it is warm enough to use the outdoor charcoal grill (272). This seasonal pleasure in her favorite food acts as a form of compensation for the racism and hardship she endures in America. Cho seems aware of this when the menu she sets for her mother’s 60th birthday party, a milestone event in Korean culture, includes cheeseburgers. By including this American food on the menu, Cho acknowledges the American imprint on her mother’s heritage and her right to have eclectic tastes that fit the variety of her experiences.

Colonialism on the Global and Domestic Fronts

The structure of Cho’s memoir shows the different stages of her education about the American colonial imposition on Korea and Koreans. She begins the story in 1976 as a naïve child sucking a red-white-and-blue popsicle on the occasion of America’s 200th birthday. Too young to consider what this celebration of American values means, Cho who thinks “only about the icy-sweet chemical flavor on my tongue” is a de facto consumer of American myths, including the one that her white father “saved” the “lovely lotus” that was her mother from “third world Korea” (1). Cho’s perspective at this stage in the memoir reflects that of a person who knows little about the Korean War or America’s interventions in Korea as part of the aim to contain communism. Throughout her memoir, Cho tracks her increasing awareness of how colonialism and American imperialism have shaped her family and global dynamics.

During her childhood, Cho becomes aware of the racism of white Americans toward her and her mother, thus destroying the idea that America is a land of equal opportunity. She also catches glimpses of the exploitation inherent in colonialist dynamics, as she witnesses her white father violently beating her Korean mother and calling her derogatory names. While 10-year-old Cho registers the insult in her mother’s hurt, she later realizes that the racist epithet her father uses derives from the fact that her father grew up in an atmosphere of white supremacy. Although Cho’s father uses the white masculinity traditionally associated with authority under patriarchy to dominate her mother, Cho shows how he is also threatened by Koonja’s bravery and ingenuity. Cho emphasizes this dynamic by showing how the period of Koonja’s tireless foraging coincides with her father’s physical decline. This dynamic becomes a metaphor for global racial injustice and resistance movements that challenge and seek to dismantle white supremacy and colonialism.

Cho is only able to find a vocabulary and context for the injustices she witnesses in Chehalis when she moves East and studies postcolonial theory. Away from home, she studies the Korean War and the injustices those with power (men, white Americans) perpetrated on those they subjugated (women, the Korean people). She stops seeing her family as a discrete entity and instead notes that “the power dynamics in my family mirrored a larger dynamic of social inequality, and my father became the main object of my criticism” (175). This new notion is reinforced by events that take place during the period of Cho’s studies, when as her mother’s sickness progresses, her father insults and mistreats his wife and expresses open contempt for his daughter’s “rejection of white identity” in favor of a postcolonial one (172). Part of Cho’s reassessment of the myths she has been told incorporates a reevaluation of the Cold War. She considers that the term Cold War is a misnomer, because it implies a bloodless, intellectual conflict aimed at containing communism. However, given that this conflict between the US and USSR took place on Korean soil, and led to lives being lost and people, including Cho’s uncle, disappearing forever, it was anything but “cold” for civilians. The sense that her mother, a colonized subject, sacrificed more than her father is reflected in the fact that Koonja remained in Korea and endured poverty and prejudice for having a relationship and children with a white American man.

Around the turn of the year of 1994 Cho learns of her mother’s work as a sex worker in the American camps, and this complicates the story of her family’s colonial dynamics even further. The idea of sex work and her father as her mother’s client threatens to destroy the myth that he was Koonja’s romantic rescuer. Cho considers whether the sex work was voluntary and almost decides the question is irrelevant because, deprived of an education by poverty and the sexism inherent in Korean society at the time, her mother had few or no other options to ensure survival or the opportunity for a different life. However, the decision was not an easy one as it left Koonja vulnerable to the risks of pregnancy, venereal disease, and rape by Korean men who considered her a traitor. Additionally, the trauma of her experiences as a sex worker were evident in her rejection of any kind of physical work as a viable option for her daughter; Koonja wanted Cho to work with her mind rather than her body to raise her status and prevent her from exploitation.

Cho’s father is uneasy about his wife’s past and tells Cho “your mother did that as seldom as possible […] I got her out of there,” thus overwriting the perceived degradation of sex work with a love story (184). However, his behavior in later life replicates the dynamic of an entitled white client and a Korean woman he considers as inferior. Cho’s father even feels entitled to start a romance with his wife’s Korean American therapist Dr. Jeon, and he brings sex workers to their home without Koonja’s consent. The sense of his entitlement to pleasure and comfort, regardless of who he hurts and exploits, reproduces the colonial dynamics that enable white men to exploit the people and resources of other nations. The final injustice of this inequality is that Cho’s father’s behavior is accepted as being within the bounds of sanity by the American medical establishment, while her mother’s hallucinations are considered dangerous and as deviations from the norm. By contrasting her parents’ personalities, actions, and symptoms, Cho shows how both on a macro and domestic level, white patriarchy has acted against her mother’s interests.

Schizophrenia as a Social Illness

A key argument of the memoir is that schizophrenia is a social illness as much as it is a biological one. Drawing upon Luhrmann’s research, Cho finds that it is almost inevitable that someone with her mother’s constellation of experiences, which include childhood trauma, racism, immigration, and being the only person of color in a white community, would have developed symptoms of schizophrenia.

Schizophrenia’s relationship to traumatic experience is evident in its symptoms. For example, Koonja’s obsessive repetition of “September forty-five,” corresponds to the date when the United States occupied South Korea with the intention to establish a government that favored American interests and ensured their continued influence (181). The US appointed a “hand-picked, Harvard-educated president,” tested weapons of mass destruction on communists, and built “an infrastructure for ‘entertaining’ the American troops” (182), a euphemism for sex work. As a colonized citizen, Cho’s mother was subjugated by these conditions, even as she tried succeed within them by becoming a camp hostess and sex worker. Her symptomatic repetition of this date seems absurd to the Americans who have forgotten, but for Koonja, the date was impactful, signaling a new colonizer’s imposition on her life.

Cho also fixates on a date: the year 1986, when the energetic, generous mother of her childhood developed reclusive tendencies and lost her interest in food. Cho stipulates that “twenty, thirty years later, I’ll look back on 1986 as the year my mother began to die” (55). Cho’s repetition of Koonja’s date fixation suggests that trauma is passed down through generations, even as she gathers evidence for why her mother fell ill on this particular year. By the end of the memoir, the reader understand that 1986 is the year Cho’s father has his third heart attack, Koonja becomes cognizant of the sexual abuse at the Green Hill detention center, and Koonja’s own mother dies. In addition, the accumulation of “damaging Cold War” experiences “that my mother faced on both sides of the Pacific,” also caused her mental health to break down (154).

While Cho is certain that institutionalized racism and sexism in America made her mother ill, the inadequately funded and researched mental health system exacerbated Koonja’s troubles. The absurd protestation that the local mental health facility could do nothing to help Koonja unless she lashed out violently ultimately worsened the paranoia that is symptomatic of schizophrenia. Later, the pills that were prescribed to Koonja to subdue the disease caused her hands to shake and gave her the feeling of lessened control over her body and mind. While Koonja’s theory that Republican President Ronald Reagan was tapping their phones and spying on them was a delusion, his actual 1981 policy to cut federal spending on mental health facilities give Koonja’s fear of him an element of truth. Cho conjectures that her mother “always said that Reagan was trying to take her down, and maybe she was right after all” (151). As Koonja’s seemingly irrational statements reflect the injustices in society at large, Cho encourages the reader to have respect and compassion for her mother.

If schizophrenia is a social disease that can be exacerbated by injustice and exclusion, Cho also shows that inclusion and attentive care alleviates some of its symptoms. While her mother’s auditory hallucinations and reclusive tendencies continue, when she is treated compassionately, either in Cho’s kitchen or at an upmarket mental health facility, Koonja remembers who she was before the disease. Cho shows that instead of trying to medicate the voices away and neglecting the patient, as per the strategy of the American medical establishment, giving the patient attention and love improves their self-esteem and makes them less vulnerable to the compulsive behavior dictated by the voices in their heads. While social reintegration via food is not a perfect cure, in this memoir, it enables mother and daughter to share moments of intimacy and connection before the former’s passing.

blurred text
blurred text
blurred text
blurred text