The Forest People

Turnbull and Kenge set out to the east, toward the Ruwenzori, the Mountain of the Moon. They drive to Beni, the place where the forest ends. They happen to hit a bad storm, however, so it is impossible to see the forest ending as they climb steep cliffs in the rain. They finally make it to Ishango National Park, where they pay a fee for a guide and to stay overnight in one of the guesthouses. The guide’s name is Henri, and he accompanies them into the park. Kenge looks out at the park and is shocked that there are no trees. It is grassland as far as the eye can see. Kenge asks what the insects are, and Turnbull is shocked that Kenge does not realize they are animals. Kenge does not believe him, as he is nothing for comparison. In the forest, everything is measured against the trees and the animals’ relation to the trees. Kenge cannot fathom that these buffalos and herds of animals are far away, and that once they drive closer, the animals will appear larger. Kenge is very skeptical of the new land, and constantly says it is a bad land. He wants to hunt the animals, but Henri tells him that he is not allowed to hunt in the park. To a Pygmy, having game and being unable to hunt is unheard of.

The staff is surprised when Turnbull says Kenge will stay with him in the guesthouse. They are also shocked when Kenge makes Turnbull’s food, annoying the chef, and then attempts to eat in the dining room. Turnbull simply takes his food and eats in the kitchen, which also angers the chef and the staff. The pair go out with Henri to watch the animal herds drink from the Semliki. It is a magical moment in the narrative, with the three crouching in the cactus and watching animals arrive in procession to drink, including Hippopotami. Kenge finally agrees that this land is a good land. The silence and the scenery convince him of this. The guide tells them that they should get back before it gets dark. They head back to their guesthouse and sit outside in the dark as animals move past them.

Kenge and Turnbull head back to the forest. Kenge remarks that the God of Father Longo must indeed be the same God as that of the forest. Kenge and Turnbull return to Epulu, where they are greeted with fanfare. Kenge tells the Pygmies about the villages being built specifically for Pygmies — no one can believe it. Turnbull notes that Pygmies are unable to survive for long in a village environment. For one, they need the shade of the forest. There are many accounts of Pygmies dying by the dozens from heatstroke when they try to work the plantations. Also, Pygmies are unable to resist the diseases they catch outside the forest. The Pygmies agree that the forest is the best place for them.

The Pygmies continue to talk about the Pygmy villages being built to “liberate” them. Most agree the villages would not be safe for them. Though they enjoy tobacco and other luxuries, such as clothing, the villages would not keep them safe from other ills, such as the water. Pygmies cannot drink village water without getting sick as they are used to the pure water of streams. Though the villages promise clean water, the Pygmies know the water would become polluted eventually. The villages also leave the Pygmies open to witchcraft. The Pygmies realize they should remain in the forest.

Turnbull notes that the Pygmies become sullen and despondent over the news, and as they do whenever hardships arrive, they begin to sing. The Pygmies sing and sing until, after a break in the song, they hear the whistling cry of the chameleon. The Pygmies immediately perk up and change the tempo of their singing. They make ngbengbe sticks. The use of these sticks in conjunction with the chameleon means there is honey nearby. Turnbull explains that honey is perhaps the most prized food of the Pygmies. It only appears for two months of the year, and the time is marked with frenzied happiness. Even hunting is abandoned during this time so honey can be procured. It is the happiest time in the lives of the Pygmies.

The villagers love honey too, and so the Pygmies naturally tell them stories about the evil spirits that lurk in the forest. These spirits conveniently lurk during honey season, which means the villagers leave the forest and the honey alone. The Pygmies set off to prepare for honey season, with Turnbull noting that Cephu has already left to set up his own camp where he thinks the best honey trees are. The Pygmies are undecided about how best to move. Some want to try to hunt while procuring honey. This group goes off with Ekianga at the helm. Masisi does not want to hunt, as hunting is traditionally not done now. He wants to forget about the village and everything it entails by returning to the forest and focusing on honey alone. He sets off with the rest of the pygmies. Turnbull and Kenge go with Masisi, as Masisi’s camp will be the quieter camp, and they both want peace and quiet.

Masisi’s group makes a new camp, Apa Toangbe. Toangbe is a special kind of honey tree. The camp quickly comes to life as the huts are formed. Turnbull decides to make crutches for Lisabeti, a crippled Pygmy girl. Most crippled children die if they cannot find the strength to get better. Cripples and the elderly are a burden for Pygmies. Asofalinda does not want anything to do with the crutches for her child, but Turnbull and Kenge show her how the crutches work. She still says no, but when Masisi interjects, Lisabeti tries the crutches and eventually loves them. Kenge has a pair for himself, and the children begin making crutches for themselves as well and walk around on them as a game. Lisabeti is finally able to play with the other children.

Turnbull mentions how the honey season can be annoying. The Pygmy “wear” the honey; it runs down their legs and hands. The bees often come to the camp in anger over their honey being stolen. The honey is eaten with live bees and grubs in the honey and honeycomb. There is a type called Apuma that comes later in the season. It also has grubs in it but they are dead. Turnbull is enthralled one night when he sees Kenge playing alone, dancing and singing in the moonlight. Kenge says he is dancing with the moon.

Anger rises in the camp after Masisi complains that the others were out getting meat but not sharing with the group. He sends Kenge and Turnbull to investigate; they are slighted by Ekianga’s group. Then they sneak into Ekianga’s angry group, and are given plenty of meat to take back. They also meet Cephu, who offers them food, but the three groups have a hard time meeting up to form one group again. Turnbull notes they have been informed that a rival group of Pygmies have invaded their territory and are taking their honey. Turnbull is fascinated as the Pygmies prepare for war, but Kenge tells him there is never any real fighting. The Pygmies do this every year, or else the Epulu Pygmies encroach on their territory. The matter is settled when the other party flees. Turnbull says the splitting up takes place every year. And like clockwork, the groups reform and talk about where their next camp will be.

Turnbull watches the honey dance, then decides to set off on his own before he leaves the Pygmies for good. He refuses offers of assistance, knowing the forest is not threatening, but challenging. He makes a final pilgrimage to Apa Lelo, where this journey began. He envisions the camp as it had been, and sees Moke speaking about the goodness of the forest, and how, if darkness exists in the forest, then darkness must good. He remembers the molimo and the dancing, thinking the sound will carry on into the dream world once men are all gone.